Our History
Welcome to Mourne Textiles, where a rich tapestry of history and craftsmanship weaves together in every piece we create. Our story begins with the visionary Norwegian designer-maker, Gerd Hay-Edie, who relocated to the breathtaking Mourne Mountains in 1947. It was here, amid the serene beauty of this rugged landscape, that Hay-Edie embarked on a journey that would forever transform the world of textiles.
Gerd Hay-Edie’s move to the Mourne Mountains was more than a change of scenery; it was the beginning of a legacy in textile design and craftsmanship. Her passion for weaving and dedication to quality laid the foundation for what would become Mourne Textiles. With a keen eye for detail and a commitment to preserving traditional techniques, Hay-Edie established a workshop that became a beacon of excellence in textile production.
Gerd Hay-Edie : the early years
Born Gerd Bergersen in 1909 in Trondheim, Norway, Gerd Hay-Edie began her journey into the world of design and hand-weaving by studying in Oslo. Her passion for textiles took her across Europe, where she gained invaluable experience as head designer at Dartington Hall in England and contributed her talents to Welsh woollen mills in the early 1930s.
In 1937, Gerd returned to Norway to work with Nydalen, the country’s largest textile mill, where she quickly made her mark. Recognised for her exceptional skills, she was appointed Advisor to the Norwegian Home Industries. Gerd played a pivotal role in founding Roros Tweed and the Norwegian Tapestry Yarn Company, achievements that highlighted her remarkable talent and leadership in the design field—all before she turned 30.
Gerd Hay-Edie's early years were characterised by innovation and dedication, setting the stage for her future contributions to the textile industry and establishing her legacy as a pioneering designer.
India and the Far East
After marrying Englishman Archie Hay-Edie in 1944, Gerd embarked on an inspiring journey across India and the Far East, visiting vibrant cities like Shanghai, Calcutta, and Hong Kong. During her time in China, Gerd immersed herself in local weaving traditions, learning to craft on traditional looms with hand-twisted yarns. This hands-on experience not only enriched her skills but also deepened her understanding of Chinese design principles, which would later influence her own work.
In Calcutta, Gerd received a prestigious commission from the Palace of the Maharajah of Gwalior to design and produce 22 exquisite hand-woven rugs. This remarkable project not only showcased her exceptional talent but also marked a significant turning point in her career, as it cemented her reputation as a master weaver and designer. The knowledge and inspiration gained during her travels would profoundly shape her future creations, establishing a bridge between Eastern craftsmanship and Western design aesthetics.
The Birth of the Workshop
In 1947, Gerd Hay-Edie relocated to Ireland, a move prompted by circumstance rather than design in the wake of the war. By 1949, she had established her own design workshop at Killowen, nestled on the slopes of the Mourne Mountains and overlooking the serene Carlingford Lough. Drawing inspiration from the breathtaking landscape surrounding her, Gerd initially aimed to design fabrics intended for machine weaving elsewhere.
However, when she faced challenges in sourcing the right production methods, Gerd turned to the local community for support. She began training the children of nearby farmers in the art of hand-weaving, transforming her workshop into a hub of creativity and craftsmanship. To realise her vision, she imported looms and textile machinery from Norway, even commissioning a local coffin maker to craft a loom tailored to her specific needs.
This initiative not only empowered the local community but also laid the foundation for Gerd's legacy in textile design, blending traditional techniques with the rich cultural heritage of her new home.
Robin Day and Hille
Gerd Hay-Edie’s enduring and fruitful partnership with renowned designer Robin Day began with a heartfelt letter from him, stating, “Of all the rugs I have seen, only yours possess the character needed as a backdrop for my new furniture designs to be exhibited at La Triennale di Milano in 1951.” This correspondence marked the start of a significant collaboration that would elevate both their careers.
The three striking black and grey rugs Gerd exhibited alongside Robin garnered a prestigious Silver Medal, recognising the innovative blend of their designs. This accolade opened the door for further collaborations, including a noteworthy project for the 1951 Festival of Britain. Gerd’s textiles were featured in the showroom of S. Hille & Co., a prominent furniture manufacturer in London’s Mayfair.
Their partnership not only showcased the synergy between textiles and furniture design but also solidified Gerd’s reputation as a leading figure in the world of woven art. Together, they contributed to a defining moment in mid-century design, influencing aesthetics that resonate to this day.
Mourne Check & Mourne Mist
Building on her successful collaborations, Gerd Hay-Edie introduced two groundbreaking upholstery fabrics: Mourne Check and Mourne Mist. These designs became pivotal in the world of interior textiles, expertly crafted to complement Robin Day's iconic furniture for Hille. Over the course of a decade, Gerd’s exquisite fabrics adorned some of Day's most celebrated pieces, seamlessly blending functionality with timeless style.
The Mourne Check features a distinctive pattern that echoes the landscape of the Mourne Mountains, while the Mourne Mist offers a soft, textured aesthetic that enhances the comfort and elegance of any interior. Together, these fabrics not only defined an era of mid-century design but also showcased Gerd’s extraordinary talent for creating textiles that resonate with both beauty and practicality.
Gerd's contributions to these pieces established her as a key player in the evolution of upholstery design, leaving a lasting legacy in the world of textiles.
The Evolution of Design - the Conran Influence
In January 1954, acclaimed designer Terence Conran commissioned Gerd Hay-Edie to create a collection of fabrics that would set a new direction for her work. This collaboration led to the development of the Blazer Design, a striking departure from her previous focus.
From 1953 to 1963, Mourne Textiles primarily produced exquisite furnishing upholstery fabrics and rugs, establishing a reputation for quality and craftsmanship. However, between 1963 and 1973, Gerd’s creative vision began to shift towards the weaving of apparel tweeds, responding to evolving fashion trends and market demands.
This transition not only broadened the scope of Mourne Textiles' offerings but also reinforced Gerd’s status as a versatile designer capable of blending traditional techniques with contemporary aesthetics. The partnership with Conran played a pivotal role in this evolution, marking a significant chapter in Gerd’s legacy within the textile industry.
Revolutionising Irish Tweed: The Connolly Collaboration
In 1956, celebrated Irish fashion designer Sybil Connolly turned to Gerd Hay-Edie to create innovative designs featuring her “Irish tweeds with a difference” for the catwalk. Gerd responded with three distinctive weights of tweed: The Irish Basic, The Emphasize, and The Open Weave—the latter later known as the Mended Tweed.
This unique combination of rough, heavy-spun and thin, smooth white Irish yarns captivated the fashion world. Gerd’s work garnered significant acclaim, with fashion journalist Anne Scott-James praising her creation as a “completely new tweed.” She described it vividly: “The threads are enormous, the weave as clumsy as bad darning, but the fabric that looks so primitive is cunningly subtle and soft.”
Gerd's collaboration with Connolly not only showcased her exceptional talent but also redefined the possibilities of Irish tweed, solidifying her place in the fashion industry and pushing the boundaries of traditional textile design.
The Shaggy Dog
For Sybil Connolly’s next fashion collection, Gerd Hay-Edie took her tweed designs to new heights, creating rich, earthy tones woven with subtle highlights of shimmering lurex gold threads. Connolly was captivated by the results, exclaiming, “I can honestly say that I never believed such an exciting effect could be achieved in a hand-loomed fabric!” The Shaggy Dog design gained widespread recognition, with The Daily Mail describing it as “undoubtedly… the pick of the show.”
In an interview with The Sunday Times, Gerd reflected on her design process: “I follow fashion in newspapers and magazines, then I let it flow until you realise that out of the present designs there follows the next development. For me, out of the past flows the future.”
This innovative approach to weaving not only defined Gerd’s contribution to fashion but also solidified her legacy as a pioneer in textile design, with her creations continuing to inspire new generations.
Sheila Mullally
In 1961, Dublin-based dress designer Sheila Mullally visited the Mourne workshop and was captivated by the rugged beauty of the surrounding landscape. Inspired by this natural setting, Mullally commissioned Gerd Hay-Edie to develop the bestselling Fuchsia Tweed.
Gerd’s distinctive tweeds, with their rich textures and vibrant colours, became a sensation in the American market that Sheila had firmly established. This marked the beginning of a successful decade-long collaboration, further cementing Mourne Textiles' reputation for innovative design and craftsmanship.
Liberty
In December 1966, Gerd Hay-Edie made an unplanned visit to Liberty of London. Without an appointment, she managed to catch the attention of the textile department buyer, who was immediately taken with her unique fabric designs and masterful colour palettes.
Impressed by her use of bold, rich tones, Liberty quickly became one of Mourne Textiles' most loyal customers, regularly placing orders for Gerd's fabrics—deep, sumptuous hues for winter and fresh, bright shades for summer.
Gerd's designs also gained recognition in the world of high fashion, with couture tweeds commissioned by prestigious houses such as Lachasse and Hardy Amies in London, showcasing the extraordinary appeal of her Irish-made textiles.
Celebrating a Legacy
Our collection is a testament to Gerd Hay-Edie’s pioneering spirit and the enduring beauty of heritage designs. At Mourne Textiles, we honour this legacy by continuing to produce exquisite fabrics that reflect the same meticulous craftsmanship and timeless appeal. Each of our textiles is carefully woven using custom-spun yarns that replicate the original colour palettes from our archives, preserving the authenticity and elegance of mid-century design.
Among our celebrated designs are the Mourne Check and Mourne Mist patterns, which were originally used by the iconic designer Robin Day in his groundbreaking furniture pieces of the 1950s. For us, these designs are more than just patterns; they are a link between past and present, embodying the seamless blend of historical significance and contemporary style.
We invite you to explore our rich heritage through our textiles and see how the legacy of Mourne Textiles can enhance your projects. For interior designers and upholsterers interested in trade enquiries, please reach out to us to discuss stock availability and how our premium fabrics can elevate your design work.
Discover the story of Mourne Textiles and experience the craftsmanship that continues to define our legacy.